The glittery eye: Namrata Soni

Women weren’t allowed to work as makeup artists in the Hindi film industry in 2003, when Namrata Soni began her career. Back then, they had to pretend they were hairstylists. So when Soni won an IIFA award for prosthetics for Om Shanti Om in 2007, there was hostility all around. Things only changed in 2014, when the Supreme Court ended the nearly 60-year-old ban.

Soni was already a well-known name on film sets by then. She’s the one who introduced fresh-faced looks for young millennials with Aisha in 2010. “Before Aisha, looks were mostly geared towards smoky eyes, winged liner and dark lipstick,” she recalls. “We kept the makeup minimal but fun – peach eyeshadow, pink cheeks, and soft, balmy lips. The braided hairband that we did became a cult favourite, because it was so easy to replicate.”

Soni also gave Sonam Kapoor glittery eyeshadow and red lips for the Cannes Film Festival in 2013, to go with her nose pin and white lace sari. “It was one of my most iconic moments,” she recalls. Glitter eyeshadow demands confidence. “Not everybody’s going to love it.” Luckily, Kapoor is a make-up artist’s dream. She loves experimenting with her style, and isn’t afraid of bold colours.

The look has been replicated over and over, with brides, women going clubbing, and at weddings. It’s changed over the years too. Shimmery eyes are now softer. Gold and silver remain classics. But rose-gold, mint-blue, and holographic tones are trendy now.

Get glitter eyeshadow right

Dab a bit of shimmery eye shadow on the inner corner of your eye if you don’t want full-on glittery eyes.

Try liquid glitter for a glossy finish on your lids.

Give a smoky eye a sparkling edge by dabbing shimmer on just the centre of the finished eyelid.

Shimmery nude eyeshadow is among the most versatile items in a makeup kit. Brush it over collarbones, cheekbones, and the centre of the lip as a highlight.

And use it when you need a boost of confidence. “I see people wear glitter and instantly feel beautiful,” says Soni.

Soft glam: Shradha Luthra

For 15 years, Shradha Luthra’s bridal looks have veered away from the Indian-wedding norm. Her brides look like themselves on their big day. The look is glamorous, celebratory, but never over the top: Glossy, natural-toned lips, a hint of blush, barely-there sparkly lids, and a base that makes skin glow from within. “I don’t wear makeup regularly. I don’t want people to view me differently because of what’s on my face. This filters down into my work too,” she says.

Luthra recently created a glowy, barely-there look for influencer Alanna Panday, for her wedding and baby shower. Panday wore neutral lips with a hint of pink, a soft blush, and eyelids with just the suggestion of sparkle. “We usually complete her whole makeup in 15 to 20 minutes,” she recalls.

For everyday looks, soft glam can come from as little as smudged liner, a neutral colour and subtle yet defined eyelashes. To take it up a notch, start with a primer (preferably with a gold base), wear sheer foundation, and a face illuminator too.

Her hacks for looking your best: Don’t wear makeup unless you have to. Test your look in different lighting: By the window, on camera, and under yellow or white light. And get creative. “If you don’t try out different looks, you won’t know what suits your face. Remember, it’s just makeup – you can always wash it off!”

Get the soft glam look right

Give yourself time in between application of your moisturiser, primer, foundation, and highlighter for the products to get absorbed.

Blot between each application if needed.

Even after applying dry makeup, such as blush powder or contour, swipe delicately with a damp beauty blender to pick up leftover residue. Aim for a seamless glow.

Nude lips: Ojas Rajani

Ojas Rajani recalls working with Urmila Matondkar in 1995, when she was just starting out in cinema, playing Mili in Rangeela. Mili was a young city girl, a dancer. She didn’t need the heavy foundation and thick liner that older stars wore. “It was a challenge to get a softer look approved for Urmila, but I stood my ground,” Rajani says. It worked. The Mili look defined the lighter, more realistic face of the late 1990s. It made Rajani a master of understated perfection.

Now, 30 years later, she’s lost count on how many times she’s customised her classic nude lip on actors, models and brides. It’s tricky to get right. Use lipstick that’s slightly lighter than your skin colour and it looks washed out. “Nude doesn’t mean just brown. Pink and coral tones work for lighter skin tones, and peachy and beige tones for darker ones,” she says.

And don’t keep it too plain. “Flush your cheeks with a little colour, and dab a little on your eyelids to complete the nude look.” Avoid black and dark brown eyeliner and instead opt for greys.

Get nude lips right

Nude lips need a flawless face to stand out. Don’t cover your face with foundation: Wet a sponge, dab it in the foundation, and spread it over your face.

Opt for a lip pencil instead of a lipstick, if you don’t want to go all-out. Outline the lips with the pencil and use a thin lip brush to lightly smudge the outline outside the edge of your lips. This gives the illusion of blurry lips that blend into your face.

Another way to wear the nude lip is to focus on the pout. Apply the lip colour on the centre of the lips, and sweep a lip brush upward and outward to spread the pigment to get a blurry effect.

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